Recently in Cat Care Tips Category

pictures_cats_outdoors.jpegIs your cat going to be an indoor cat or outdoor cat or an indoor cat with outdoor access? It is a big decision to make for the well being of your cat and your sanity.

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You need to think carefully about the positives and negatives before deciding which way to go. Some things to consider are the dangers to your cat from other animals and mean humans. Fleas, ticks, scorpions, snakes, coyotes, rabies, etc. and do not forget annoyed neighbors.

Cats can be happy indoors, if you see to their needs. Any window with a birdfeeder and bird bath in the view can provide hours of pleasure for your cat and satisfy their stalking and hunting instincts. Open the window on nice days with a secure screen in place. A handful of chemical free grass will supply their need for green grass to eat. We keep a special patch to pick from. In the Winter months we plant a big pot of rye grass.

We lived on a 41 feet sail boat for ten years with two cats. For 5 of those years we were on a mooring and for the other five we were at a dock. We trained both cats to wear a harness when we were under way and when we were going to come into a dock. Then they quickly accepted the idea of walking on a lease, so that they could investigate their new environment. They played on the deck and went up and down stairs, dozens of times a day.

pictures_cats_indoors.jpegLater when we moved into a house, we continued to walk them on the lease. One cat even got to the point that we could carry him down the block and put him down. Then he would walk home on his own. He did not like to walk away from home, only the return trip. Being accepting of walking on a lease is also great for traveling purposes. It is a safe way to have your cat be outside.

Now we have two rescued cats who want nothing to do with the outdoors.They had enough fearful experiences outside. They both enjoy watching the birds from inside the patio doors, but they prefer their food in a food bowl. Just hearing a neighbors dog bark or seeing one from a window can freak them out and send them running for their safe hiding place.

We live in SE Arizona and outside cats do not last too long with coyotes, snakes, scorpions, rabies and other terrifying things.

Cats with outdoor access can treat you to fleas and ticks. They can bring you special gifts of a dead mouse or bird. They can be hurt by another cat, dog or other animals. Chase the wrong thing and it could be the last thing the cat does chase. But they do have the freedom to roam and upset the neighbors by using a flower bed as a litter box or hunting birds in the neighbors yard. Just because you think they are adorable, does not mean that others do.

The choice to declaw or not is a big and very important decision. I would suggest that you do a search and read the available information and discuss it with your vet, to make an informed decision.

As you can see the choice of an indoor cat or an outdoor cat affects not only you and your cat but your entire neighborhood so think long and hard before you make your decision. Your neighbors will appreciate your consideration.

Author: Judy Jantzen and her husband have owned cats for the past 25 years. Check out her website Cat Goodies Finder

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Swan_Lake_pictures_of_orphaned_kitten.jpgEventually, your cat is going to need to take some medication. Cats seem to commonly get certain conditions, like bladder or kidney infections, respiratory problems, or oral inflammations, and these are traditionally treated with antibiotics. Some cats are easier to medicate with liquid preparations, administered with an eye dropper, but sometimes it's necessary to get a pill down them.

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It's not always medication, either. You might wish to provide your cat some vitamins, and they may be obtained in pill or capsule form, too.

You can fool a dog by wrapping the pill in a slice of cheese or a wad of hamburger, but cats are more discriminating and not easily fooled. The only way to do this is with the direct approach. The cat must simply learn to accept that you are the boss and this pill thing is going to happen. (Don't shake your head... you can do this!)

Similar to getting a reluctant cat into a pet taxi, a towel may be your best option with this, too. Calmly and gently wrap the cat so you end up with a "papoose," with the mouth exposed at one end. Everything else must be wrapped tightly, or you may get scratched. Or worse, the cat will escape, and you won't be able to catch him again very soon.

whitepersian.jpgPlace your "cat-papoose" on a table or counter top, then lean over him lightly with your upper body. Be careful, he still needs to breathe! If you have a pill popper tool, use it. If not, caution here is essential, for even a tame cat may bite as a simple reflex he can't help. With one hand, hold the back of the cat's head by the skin. Pull firmly back. (Yes, this gives them a streamlined look.) Sometimes this opens the mouth. If not, and you have a helper, grasp the chin skin and pull the jaw down.

Insert the pill tool so it is poised at the back of the tongue. Pop the pill into the throat, then quickly close the mouth and stroke the cat's neck to help him swallow. Don't let him open his mouth until you are sure the pill has been consumed.

If you do not have a pilling tool, you might need to have good aim. Toss the pill directly into the throat. If you miss, you may have to put the pill on the back of the tongue and poke it down with your finger. This is a touchy deal. Be very careful, and very fast so you aren't bitten. Once the pill is in, close his mouth and hold it, stroking the throat area to help him swallow it.

If you need some coaching or a good demonstration, ask your veterinarian to show you how to do this.

When done, carefully release the cat... slowly, calmly, and speak reassuringly. You don't want to let him take off like a streak afterward, as this will reinforce the idea that he has escaped from some torture you are administering. As you gently unwrap him, tell him what a great cat he is and what a great job he did. Then calmly set him down on the floor. Cats respond to compliments, so use them copiously. He may run off, but if you act nonchalant, the cat will learn to relax, too.

Dr. Peters has an extensive background in health care and animal care. Visit The Problem Cat for more articles and information about cats.

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relaxing_shoulder.jpgNo matter how you work it, walking a cat on leash is never going to be like walking a dog. That's the main thing we must accept. However, cats can be trained to walk on a leash! It is definitely a learned behavior, as no cat comes by it naturally. But it can work rather well, if you work at it. If you start with a kitten, it is definitely easier to accomplish. But adult cats can learn it, too. It just might take longer, and tax your patience more, but nothing is impossible with determination and perseverance - and most importantly, patience.

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Start by getting your cat used to wearing a collar, if she doesn't have one already. Or, better yet, help your cat become accustomed to a harness. While a collar can be left on constantly, it's not recommend to do so with a harness. Most cats seem uncomfortable in a harness, and it could impact their balance and mental well being if they are forced to keep it on all the time. Just put the harness on when it is time to do the leash thing, and they will learn that the harness is equated with taking a walk. If this is the cat's only opportunity to go outdoors, they will come to accept it and even look forward to it.

After they learn that the collar, or the harness, is not going to kill them, attach a short piece of string to it and let them drag it around the house for an hour or so. Some cats will be frightened by this and others will find it amusing and make a game of it. If you have more than one cat, this could definitely become a game they enjoy.

Once they become indifferent to it, attach a real leash and let them drag that around for a while. (Never ever leave anything attached to their collar or harness permanently. And keep an eye on them to prevent getting snagged and hurting themselves.) Soon, you can pick up the leash and handle it, perhaps tugging on it from time to time. This lets them know you have it and can control it. Now lift it up off the floor and follow your cat around, holding the leash up. Don't tug - just follow. Once they become used to that, you can begin making little tugs now and then, just to let them know you're there.

photoshop_the-second-set-of-eyes-please.jpgNow you can take this show on the road. Well, the sidewalk, anyway. Or the yard, or the park, or.... where would you like to go? Just be near a place where you can quickly put kitty back inside in case a safety issue arises. That place could be your house, your car, a pet taxi, a friend's house, or a motel room. Many motels now allow pets in the rooms, as more and more people travel with their pets.

The thing is, cats are more likely than dogs to freak out and try to run up a tree or under a car. Or into traffic. If she's on a leash, you can prevent these mishaps, but the collar or harness had better be strong, and you will have to be a pillar of calm and strength for her, sweeping her up if she gets into trouble and putting her immediately into a safe place so she can recuperate. It is amazing sometimes what little things will make a cat spook.

The first few real walks will have to be short, but as she, and you, become used to this new activity, she will want to walk farther each time, and you will be amazed at how well she does on a leash. Just don't expect her to heel. And don't encourage any running, as this will only excite her into a fear mode more easily.

Cats also love to stop and smell the roses, or eat grass. Let them smell, don't let them eat. This leash thing isn't going to evolve into a jogging routine for either of you, so let her smell and investigate things. However, eating grass could be dangerous if you don't know whether it's been sprayed with any chemicals. Keep your walks short and get back inside while everyone is still upbeat so these excursions will always be a positive experience.

Article by Dr. R.J. Peters

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girl_grooming_cat.jpgUsually harmless, hairballs that your cat brings up every once in a while consist of fur ingested by the animal when cleaning itself. Some hairballs cannot be dislodged by the cat which is the time it can cause problems. At this point, if non-responsive to standard treatment (usually by way of laxatives), the cat might need surgical intervention or it could possibly die.

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Since hairballs are soft masses, they don't show up on x-rays so owners need to be aware of their pet's grooming habits. If you describe your cat as one that is always licking its coat and grooming itself, you should mention this to your veterinarian if the animal seems to be lethargic, losing weight and/or is disinterested in food.

Questionable Prevention of Hairballs

In his book Amazing Kitchen Cures, Joey Green claims that using a little Alberto VO5 conditioner in your cat's coat is a hairball prevention measure. He says the conditioner is safe because it's non-toxic and natural.

However, a March 2009 report regarding baby shampoos and children's bubble baths from big brand names like Johnson's, L'Oreal, Sesame Street, Huggies and Pampers, was cited in the news recently, saying that trace amounts of formaldehyde and other chemicals have been found in them. The cancer-causing toxins have not been separately added to the products (thus are not required to be listed as ingredients) but are by-products of chemical manufacturing and product development.

Although initial findings are not calling for product recall citing that the soaps are used quickly and then rinsed off children's skin and scalps, the same cannot be said for cats. If you put even a small amount of conditioner in a cat's coat, its grooming habits are such that the product will be ingested.

First Line of Defense Against Hairballs

pictures_cat_comb.jpgThe best thing you can do for your cat to prevent hairballs is to use a steel-toothed comb or a curry brush (one with rubber nubs) and comb her with it regularly. Simple, but there it is. Many cat owners find that the de-shedding tool called The Furminator ruins the animal's top coat (although dog owners tend to swear by it). Using a regular pet brush on your cat doesn't usually touch the undercoat, but can be add a nice finishing glossy touch to her fur.

If you have a kitten, this is the time to get her used to being groomed by you. If your cat doesn't appreciate grooming, a little at a time will help with periodic trips to a groomer whenever necessary. Grooming should always start with your hands, to feel for lumps, tangles or matted hair.

Holistic and Homeopathic Approaches to Hairball Prevention

Hairballs are comprised of a lot of fat in addition to your cat's fur. By adding a teaspoon of egg-based lecithin (not soy-based) to your cat's wet food twice a week, the fat is dissolved, allowing the hairball to pass through the intestinal tract.

Indoor-only cats should have access to "cat grass". This provides natural roughage to your pet's diet and seems have a mild laxative effect, which can help eliminate the fur that is ingested by your cat when grooming.

Slippery Elm Bark (a herb that turns slimy when you mix it with water) works by coating the digestive tract, again helping your cat to expel hair balls naturally. This is another preventive measure which you can give your cat twice a week. One way to prepare slippery elm bark is to mix 2 capsules with a tablespoon of boiling water. When it cools, add it to your cat's favorite wet food.

Food Supplements That Help Avoid or Get Rid of Hairballs

Pictures_of_cats_vacuuming.jpgIf your cat enjoys a pat of butter, you can treat her twice weekly with about a half teaspoon to help lubricate her digestive system. Soft bulk is another approach to help her pass hairballs, serving a teaspoon of pureed vegetable two times a week, like canned pumpkin (natural with no additives) or squash.

Pet Store Hairball Products

Petroleum-based laxatives that have been approved by the FDA for use in veterinary medicine include brand names like Drs. Foster and Smith Hairball Remedy, Felaxin, Kat-A-Lax, Lax'aire, Laxatone, to name a few. As with the homeopathic products and some of the foods, the vaseline basically coats both the hair in the cat's stomach and intestines, helping it to pass through the animal's gastrointestinal tract, and also lubricates the colon and stool itself.

In any of the laxatives, there can be a decrease in the body's ability to absorb fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, & K) especially when it is used frequently and on a long term basis. Speak to your vet about vitamin supplements if you are regularly providing your cat with any hairball prevention foods, herbs or products.

Freelance writer Stephanie Olsen has been involved in animal rescue for many years. If you have questions about your cats or kittens, visit Kitten Adoption Info to read more informative articles.

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pictures_cats_litter_alternatives.jpgIndoor cats use litter boxes, and those litter boxes need to be filled with litter. I, personally, am allergic to clay litter. Since I have an indoor cat, I have to find an alternative to clay litter. I'm going to review a few of the alternative non-clay litters that I have tried, namely PaPurr Scoop, World's Best and Swheat Scoop.

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My criteria for a good litter are:

- Dust-free (or as dust free as litter can get)

- Good odor control

- As little tracking as possible

- Good clumping for easy removal

- Smells good

With that, let me get on with the review of each.

PaPurr Scoop Review

First off, let me

review PaPurr Scoop.

PaPurr Scoop litter is a clumping litter made out of recycled paper. It is lightly scented with a somewhat floral scent. This litter does not have much dust since it is made out of recycled paper. What I like about this litter is that it feels just like clay with the little round particles. It feels good to the touch, so I would imagine it would feel good to a cat's paws as well.

My cat is really good with his litter box habits and so he will use whatever I put in his box. Which works great for me as I don't have to worry when switching litters for testing purposes. When I first put this litter into his box, he came over and sniffed it. He used it, but he didn't really like the smell of it. It made him sneeze. It made me sneeze too after it was sitting there for a while. It was the fragrance they put in it.

It didn't work out . . .

Moving on to World's Best Cat Litter . . .

World's Best Cat Litter Review

World's Best Cat Litter is made from corn. I know some cats and some people are allergic to corn, so caution needs to be exercised in this regard.

pictures_cats_clay_alternatives_litter.jpgThe litter is lightweight and so it does track quite a bit, unfortunately. This litter IS dusty. I ended up with a fine layer of corn dust everywhere my cat stepped. And my cat, whose feet are white, ended up with yellow feet a few weeks into using this litter . . . It was kinda funny . . . and if you happen to own a yellow cat, then this wouldn't be a problem . . .

Clumping-wise, World's Best does clump well. The clumps are rather loose though. My cat would end up playing with the clumps to the point of breaking it into many little clumps which would end up not getting scooped since they were so little . . . Not good.

World's Best is good at controlling odor though. The bag states that you can use this littler up a month, but I was only able to use it for about two weeks before it started smelling foul. This is probably due to my cat breaking apart his clumps . . . (I scoop twice daily.) And another note, a rather interesting one at that. This corn litter attracts moths, a lot of moths. It took me a few days to realize where they came from . . .

Next, we have Swheat Scoop.

Swheat Scoop Review

And thus, my trials took me to Swheat Scoop, my current favorite.

Swheat Scoop is truly a dust free litter. But again, this litter is not for those with wheat allergies.

Swheat Scoop has small granules that are denser than World's Best and so it tracks a bit less than World's Best.

It's odor control is great. I like the light scent of the wheat as well. My cat isn't bothered by the smell of it either. Out of these three litters, this is the only one that does not make him sneeze.

The clumps are hard and I haven't seen any broken clumps since I started using this product.

One word of caution, the bag states to keep at least 3 inches of litter in the box. This is a necessity! If you keep less, then you will end up with a mushy pile of litter at the bottom of the box. Not very pleasant to clean up . . . I currently keep about 4 inches of it in my jumbo size box (I have a big cat). It works great!

Thanks for reading! And I hope this helps in your search for a good alternative to clay cat litter.

Article by Amy Yang. Read more of Amy Yang's reviews at her blog, Best Cat Care Products.

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Just like in real estate where location is crucial, so it is for your cat's litter boxes.

Here's some ideas and tips on how to effectively locate them for good cat litter box habits.

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Pictures_cats_litter_box_location.jpgWhen you think about cat litter box placement, imagine if it's a place where you'd like to do your business. We humans generally cherish a quiet and private location. Your cat isn't much different. She'd like her cat litter boxes placed where she can feel safe while voiding. When animals eliminate, this is a vulnerable time for them, and if your cat doesn't feel safe and comfortable, she'll find her own location to fulfill this need.

Depending upon the cat's age and mobility, an ideal litter box location is someplace where humans don't tread constantly. Take a look around your house and think about this as you ponder locations. Some ideal places are your basement, rarely-used bathrooms, and larger closets.

If you have a room that doesn't get much traffic and won't let the odors waft all through the house, then set up a litter box in that location.

If a family member's bedroom will work (assuming that person won't be jarred awake at 3 AM when kitty is busy digging a hole to China to bury her output!), use that as well.

Many cats prefer to have a cat litter box near their favorite "hang outs." This way, they don't have to go far when nature calls.

The most desirable location will be quiet, somewhat secluded, and afford kitty the luxury of time and the feeling of safety to properly eliminate in her cat litter box.

Sometimes your cat will decide a location for you. In my home, my kitty Scout prefers the cat litter box in the exercise room in lieu of the one in the basement (which would be my first choice) and another in a nook off the kitchen.

But she doesn't like those locations as well, so it's critical that I keep that cat litter box up to her standards - clean, no deposits left over from her brother JJ, and leaving the door open - even when I'm using the exercise bike or the cross trainer! If I forget any of these things, she lets me in the most direct way possible - by not using a litter box when she needs to eliminate.

If there was ever a case where cats have staffers and hired help, I'm living proof! So take a hint from your cat...try to accomodate her preferred location for successful, consistent cat litter box usage.

Article by Nancy Wigel who solved the cat urine odor problem in her home, and kept the cat that caused it. Read "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" to discover your solution.

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Cat_litter_box.jpgAutomatic litter boxes live to do one thing - clean up after your kitty's visits to the box. Around the clock, they scoop and clean the litter bed removing waste and leaving the pan fresh for the next call of nature. The most obvious benefit of a self cleaning box is in the time saved, but you might not realize that these boxes can actually be healthier for your kitty and you. Read on to learn how this new technology can protect the health your pet and your family.

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It's no secret that cat boxes develop an odor rather quickly. This is in part due to the fact that they hold kitty's waste. It is also partly due to the fact that bacteria can develop in the box, creating an odor and a health hazard.

Bacteria thrives in warm moist areas, just like the bottom of your litter pan. The longer waste sits, the more likely it is that bacteria will grow and thrive. The result is odor. Worse still, every time your pet visits the box they can get that bacteria on their paws and track it on to furniture, laps, and everywhere else they go. This spread of bacteria increases the chance of your pet becoming ill and possibly members of your family as well.

The solution? Frequent cleaning and disinfecting of your kitty's litter pan. Ideally, you should scoop after every visit as this will prevent the waste from sitting and the bacteria from developing. Realistically, no one has the time to constantly monitor their pets litter box. Fortunately, there are many options available in the way of automatic litter boxes.

Most self cleaning litter boxes work around the clock to clean up waste after your pet. Every model also has some type of storage for waste material so that it doesn't sit where it can develop a smell or come in contact with your pet. Maintaining one of these litter boxes is as easy as emptying out the waste compartment. There is even one type that cleans and disinfects it's self using a cleaning solution.

If you would like help choosing the right automatic litter box for you and your kitty's, be sure to check out my site for a number of litter box reviews. On my site you will find feedback from other cat owners on the variety of self cleaning cat boxes on the market and learn which ones work best and which ones are better avoided.

Article By A.J. Lowery

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Pictures_cats_kitten.jpgSpring is here, and with it lots of kittens. If you have an animal shelter near you, perhaps you want to consider asking if they send mother cats and kittens to foster homes and opening up your home to foster a family of kittens.

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Many shelters have found that sending the mother cat and her kittens to a foster home is a great way to save shelter money and a great way to keep the kittens away from diseases that are found at animal shelters.

Offering your home as a foster home for kittens is a great way to help the animal shelters, and a great way to be involved in helping your community. But there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

First, if you already have cats, be sure to get them vaccinated for the most common cat diseases. The kittens and their mother that you take in could be carrying diseases such as feline leukemia and Feline Infection Peritonitis.

You will also want to make sure your cats do not have anything that could be harmful to the mother and her kittens. Having your cats tested for worms and given a health exam would be helpful in keeping the kittens healthy while they are at your home.

Another thing you want to consider is the responsibility. During the weeks you have them, until they are old enough to be altered and adopted out, you will be responsible for their care. If they get sick, the shelter will probably cover the expense, but you will be the one administering the medicine.

You will also be responsible for taking care of the mother and keeping the kittens safe. With a mother cat and her kittens visiting your home you will not be as free to go away, especially not on any overnight trips.

Those are the difficulties of being a foster home for kittens. What are the benefits?

pictures_cats_Queen_kittens.jpgFirst, the enjoyment you get from helping these little creatures. Many kittens kept at shelters do not survive because of disease. It is not the fault of the shelter, but with all the animals coming and going there is little chance kittens won't get ill. Depending on how weak or strong they are, these diseases can kill them or weaken them for the rest of their life.

Second, you will enjoy watching these kittens as they get old enough to play with each other. Kittens are so cute, and you will get to enjoy them at their cutest until they are old enough to be adopted out (which in some areas is at about three months).

Third, if you want to get one or two kittens (or more) this is a great way to get to know their character before making any decision. And if you do keep any, you will have the pleasure of having known them since they were very tiny, which is a lot of fun.

All these are great reasons to host a homeless cat and her kittens if you are a cat lover.

Visit Carol Stack's blog, Cat Lovers Portal

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It's always stressful for your cat when you change his routine. Cats are creatures of habit, they like to nap in the same spots, they like to sniff things and be in total control of their environment. So what can you do to make a trip to the vet safe and as stress free as possible for you and for your cat?

purple_pillow3.jpgUse a cat carrier. As any good cat owner has discovered, cats like small secure spaces, especially when there is something unusual or frightening happening. I imagine that for most spoiled and well cared for cats, there is nothing more frightening than going for a ride on a bus or in a car. A cat carrier will offer that security better than your arms. Besides, if your cat gets really scared, you'll be scratched to shreds if you're not careful!

Getting your cat into the cat carrier might be the most frightening thing for both you and your cat, more than the vet visit. So I want to share with you some ideas for getting your cat into the carrier without any bloodshed.

1. Keep the carrier hidden until just before you have to put the cat into it. I like to hide it in the laundry room with the door closed so Neo doesn't see it. If he sees it or smells it, I won't be able to get him out from under the bed and we'll miss his appointment.

2. Get the carrier ready a few days (if you can) or hours before you have to leave so there is no last minute rustling around with your cat when he's already freaked out. Put a soft towel at the bottom of the carrier for his comfort and to absorb urine or vomit - you never know how your cat will react to being in the carrier, even if he's used to it. And wipe it down so it's not dusty or smelly from the last time you used it.

3. Make the appointment at a time when you won't be rushed to get there, if you can, but if your cat senses you are stressed or rushed, he will be even more worried about what is happening too. So try to remain calm even if you aren't.

4. What do you do about the extra legs your cat grows when you try to shove him in the carrier? You know what I mean, he's got all four paws pressed against the door of the carrier and you get his paws in one by one, but your cat pulls them out of the carrier just as fast and resists your every effort to get him in there. Or your cat seems to grow more fangs and claws and you just can't get him in.

This is why I like to keep the carrier hidden. I can pick Neo up and he thinks we are just cuddling, then I walk toward the carrier and hold his arms and legs and put him into the carrier backwards, and close the door quickly. He's never happy with me, but I talk sweetly to him and tell him what a good boy he is and use his name and...well, at least he's in the carrier and we can get going.

Sharp_dressed_cat.jpgIf this method doesn't work for you, you can try wrapping your cat in a towel and set him in the carrier, towel and all before shutting the door - you'll buy yourself a few seconds to close the door because the cat is going to need some time to get unwrapped. Don't wrap the towel around his head and don't wrap him too tightly or you'll be opening the door to unwrap him and risking an escape.

Some people leave the carrier out all the time so the cat doesn't get scared when he sees it. I have to keep it stored because I just don't have room for a carrier laying around (although I do have room for a cat to be laying around all the time...hmmm maybe I'll try this, I'll find a place to keep it out all the time)

Once he's in the carrier, keep talking nicely to him and hopefully he won't be howling too loudly when you step on the bus with a bunch of strangers! Or if you are driving, make sure you put the seat belt through the handle of the carrier like I blogged about before in Driving Miss Kitty: Restrain your cat for safety while you drive.

Cat litter boxes that we supply for our precious pets are a very convenient item to make available when you happen to have a cat that has been trained to use a box for his 'business'. However, in making your final selection in the choice of a box that will offer the most advantages for your particular needs, there are a few things that you might want to take into consideration before purchasing this useful item for your lovable fur ball.

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_pictures_cats_clean_ears.jpgIn the society that we live in today and with the constant advancements that are being made in high tech technology it can seem as if we have an almost endless selection to choose from in the unique varieties and styles that are available to choose from. Each selection of cat litter boxes of course offering its own set of unique conveniences for us to take advantage of. Take the plain and simple plastic square shaped boxes for example that a large number of pet owners use today. Yes, even this popular variety offers some enjoyed benefits that numerous individuals have found to be very useful.

These styles are not bulky in the shape and various sizes that are available in, they are small compared to several of the other choices, they can be found at very reasonable money saving prices, and they can almost be hidden away and placed out of sight in any room of your home that you wish to place them in. This choice is one that is also very easy to clean when this necessary task has to be performed. Believe it or not, there are also cat litter boxes that offer a self-cleaning feature that is a style becoming quite popular in the selection of pet items that are available on the market today. There are also choices that have a covering that goes over the entire top of the box that works great for keeping it well hidden and covered. It does not matter which of the handy styles that you may like the best, or the choices that your fluffy friend finds to be the most comfortable to use, you can be sure to find a design that will work quite well for your pet's individual needs.

In browsing through the variety of cat litter boxes available, you can carefully consider the styles and the options that you are looking to find. Comparing the items offered on several websites can be useful in helping to make the right choice for your pets.

Article by Angie Atkins. For more information about cat litter, visit the Cat Litter Website.

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